Colin shared with me his example of "quality cooking." I learned that, no matter the medium, make sure you are working with your heart. For that, I thank him...
Even though good hearts and obvious talents are present, a restaurant where EVERYONE is "the new guy," will undoubtedly come with a few hick-ups. This brand-new kitchen is the East Bay recreation of its San Francisco namesake. The Cuisine is Southern Italian, Puglian and Neapolitan to be specific. While fresh pasta is made daily, I was most impressed with their fish and Neapolitan pizza concepts.
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| Sea Bass Al Forno |
A restaurant's success, like any business, is a representation of functionality, or lack thereof. Like a combustion engine, every part is a necessary component, shaped and maintained to perform a specific function. If at anytime, one component fails, no matter how small, the system does not work. From ingredients, to decor, kitchen equipment, expediting, purveyor relationships, hiring, employee incentives, service standards, communication, training systems, cleaning, etc. each component is in place to deliver a final idea. In the case of the engine, this idea is forward motion. Albatross 16's idea is upscale Italian dining. It seems that all the parts have been put in place, but a few inefficiencies are muddying up the experience. The injectors are dirty and its robbing fuel economy. The coolant has been mixed wrong, and overheating is immanent if the problem is not fixed. A break-in period is needed to work out these kinks. A few issues became sadly noticeable to me before I could even get a look at the food. There is a serious disconnect between front and back-of-the-house. This means that the ones cooking and the ones serving are not communicating. The unfamiliarity has people shouting "Hey guy!" or simply, not addressing an issue at all. It is strange working in a place where people feel social barriers between each other.
two cents:
I believe open and clear communication is the key to success in all interaction;
whether it is a relationship or a dinner service.
The cooks working the line, while wholeheartedly talented, didn't seem too pleased to be working there. Many of them who came from the restaurant group's Michelin-star sister restaurant seemed accustomed to a particular style of cooking which was not Albatross 16's focus. I noticed a tinge of bitterness in the air because of this. In another instance, the garde-manger cook who was responsible for slicing the live geoduck to order, was a dread-locked animal rights activist who proclaimed his discontent for serving the dish every time one was called. Though they might have been good cooks, no one really seemed to be in support of the concept or more importantly, each other. ALL ENERGY COMES THROUGH ON THE PLATE! These were a few things which made service much more difficult to get through than it had to be. I don't know if Lucas Oil makes a product to clean this kind
of choked fuel line.
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| Back Line |
The Food quality, despite the aforementioned, is commendable. The chef's vision is simple and direct. Albatross 16 is Southern Italian through and through. Simple food done with stellar ingredients. A nod to the chef's direct heritage and travels. I'm into that!
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| Crudo Tasting: (from top going clockwise) Yellow fin, Sea Urchin, Geoduck |
The concept of Italian cooking is Zen-like in nature. I would like to take a minute to do yet another stretch of an anology: Bikram yoga, from what I understand, revolves around the same sequence of stretches and poses practiced loyally. You are asked to develop your ability and capacity within this one unchanging sequence. Though doing the same movements, a master will rise above a novice in their overall execution; their style, how long they can hold a pose for, how far they can stretch and how they feel during and at the end of a class, are factors which make this unchanging routine a very subjective experience. The same is true in Italian cooking. The cuisine is a framework to work within. The test comes in the development of technique within these walls of tradition. Respect and reference become paramount, rather than the desire to re-invent.
Ahh yes! we now begin to see that great chefing can mean about a million different things.
A bar-style front kitchen showcases a genuine Stefano Ferrara Wood-Fired Pizza Oven! From what I hear, this is in fact, the undisputed "best" pizza oven in production now. Shipped in from Naples, it is a monument of pizza cookery. A testament to the fact that we as humans thrive off of obsession, that people will die attempting to achieve quality in their craft, and their gravestone will briefly state something about their family life, only to be completely overwhelmed by a statement about the love of PIZZA in big bold letters, etched into the stone, representing their soul's quest for generations to come. I will attempt to convey what I learned in the following:
The individual manning this station did this oven justice. We will call him...Colin. On his own time and dollar, Colin traveled to Naples to become certified in pizza making. I will do my best to relay his "certified" instructions on "proper" Neapolitan pizza-making: (Margherita)
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| Stefano Ferrara |
- Italians believe there should only be three toppings on a pizza.
- Your work-top must be marble to keep dough cool, preventing it from heating up (cooking) and sticking.
- A proper fire must be maintained throughout service (cook time: about 90 seconds)
-A good dough must be properly proofed: too short (hard proof) and it will not hold proper shape.
- Create crust by working the dough in a circular motion on the bench, allowing your right hand to do the work, using your left hand only as a guide.
- aggressively slap the center of your dough to toughen gluten strands, promoting a better base for shape and toppings.
- Apply crushed tomato, basil leaves and fresh mozzarella ( not too much mozz, as it will dispel water)
- With your large peel (traditionally metal, not wood; measured to span the gap between your oven and bench-top) should be rested as such so you are able to transfer your pizza on to it with both hands by dragging.
- Now inside the oven: Using your dominant hand (on the back of the peel handle,) place the top of the peel down and drag it out from under the dough.
- Wait for light, golden color to develop on one side and than rotate. Rotate by tilting the now set pizza on its edge and drag it towards the front of the oven (like a wheel.)
- Rotate the pizza through the four points of heat in the dome-shaped oven, exposing all sides to the fire, promoting even browning.
- Italian preference: Look for light, even browning on crust, with sporadic "leopard spots" to know it is done. (This opposed to the heavy-bubbled and blistered American preference.)
- Remove and finish with some good extra-virgin olive oil and sea salt (always)
Precision and attention paid to every step, it was clear Colin cared about his craft. His fastidious nature was represented in the final product. His idea was to make excellent pizza. All analogies aside, I believe he succeeded.
"Define Quality" attempt # 1.
- Enjoying food is analogous to sexual attraction. "Quality" is in the eye (senses) of the beholder (your guest.) Eating is a subjective, emotional experience. The feeling put in to the cooking directly translates to the final idea. On what level do you connect with what you do? Engaging with your true passion is a brave endeavor, but also the common denominator in finding quality. We can say:
Quality then becomes purely a measure of emotion.
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