Plum Bar

I climb into the boat, flick on the the light, and notice the dried up grounds inside the coffee filter from this morning.  I remember the anxious state I was in before I left to start my day.  It is finally quiet, but the sounds of clashing pans on the flat top and a droning hood vent linger in my head.  The energy of a dinner service can be hard to come down from.

       I have left my current job to pursue a career that doesn't quite exist yet.  It is a path which requires building, a degree of creativity, and one that will naturally incur many doubts.  I am exploring a culture which puts dining and hospitality above anything, often times at the expense of our mental and physical health.  Long hours spent in high-pressure, demanding environments seem to be the norm in this industry.  I am now attempting to question this tradition.  Are these the best conditions to spark Creativity? "Quality" cooking?  What is "quality" anyways?!  Do I just need to toughen up?

       I entered the restaurant at 11 am, with only the hope of speaking with a chef to facilitate a future stage.  Upon meeting, the chef deemed me "ready to work," and we trotted back to the kitchen.  I did not think I would get traction this quickly, so a wave of nerves was swallowed.
       He was alone in the kitchen before I came in.  His mise en place was clean and organized; clearly prepared for the twelve hour shift to come.  Kanye West was blaring through some Ipod speakers in the corner: "Ain't nobody fresher than my mu'h-fuckin' clique, clique, clique!"  I peered into his 9-pans wresting on ice, immediately taken by knife skills and technique I know are above my own.  Dehydrated calve's tendon, fresh baked bread, house-fermented kimchi, pickled mustard seeds; components which had me anticipating the service to come...

Quinoa Falafel with fried lemon slice on house-made, yeasted flatbread dough.

The subsequent tour of the kitchen revealed a work space which I will describe as "beautifully" equipped.  Gone are the crusty burners and dented walk-in refrigerators that I am accustomed to.  French flat tops, LED-lit, glass reach-ins, combi-ovens and vacuum sealer machines may be run-of-the-mill to many who are reading this, but I have not always been so fortunate. 

    

Butchering Cod

Beautiful reach-in

Pickled Cauliflower, Kimchi, Pickled Beet

       Plum is the restaurant; a provocatively casual, yet refined addition to Daniel Patterson's restaurant group.  This particular spot is divided into two separate entities; Plum Bar and Plum Restaurant.  Today, I spent my time in Plum Bar.  The kitchen is closed, though cooks will take the time to personally run a dish here and there.  It is important to put a face behind the food whenever possible, (for the guest's experience and the cook's alike.)  

two cents: 

In my opinion, I am not satisfied cooking in a closed kitchen.  The disconnect between the ones cooking the food and the guests eating it, is a frustrating reality of the restaurant medium.  Not to mention, contact is also lost between front and back-of-the-house.  I hate this!  I like to think that there is an importance placed on on employee relations and that personality is a factor in quality.  

       As I prepped hamburger patties --beef ground in-house, each ring mold-formed, pressed with the back of a spoon, to form perfect, polished right-angles-- I watched the bar manager run up and down the stairs, spouting off ideas, clutching a vacuum-sealed bag of avocado segments.  This, all in the name of a new drink special for the following night.  (I love observing people in the throws of the creative process.)

       The same fresh energy is pervasive through out the kitchen.  Make no mistake; Plum Bar serves BAR FOOD.  However, it is executed with a brilliant fervor, a recognition of the classics, paired tastefully with new trends and a general understanding of what is just plain delicious.  --A few examples of said deliciousness: Pork carnitas, chicharones, quinoa falafel, assorted pickles (including a particularly badass kimchi,) grilled cheese and smoked garlic french fries (the fries themselves are put into the smoker before frying.)--

Dehydrate sliced beef tendon - Drop in fryer - Watch them puff up into Chicharones!
(They crackle and pop on the plate and on your tongue as you eat)

       After portioning hamburgers, I was prompted to cook staff meal for the restaurant.   a nerve wracking concept, but it went just fine.  --Spicy chicken wings, twice-baked tarragon potatoes, sprouted sunflower seed and dandelion green salad.  (They had a few things already prepped for me to use)--  Easy to do when you know your cooking for good people.  

       I shared great conversation with the cooks at Plum.  Michelin-star chefs who have their own families outside of work; a lifestyle which puts a few things into perspective for me...  Among the staff are motivated, young individuals who spend their days-off staging at other Michelin-rated restaurants.  This dedication is commendable, and I am confident their technique far surpasses my own because of it. Two years ago, I might have attempted to emulate this behavior.  Now, I am looking for answers beyond this ladder we, as professional cooks, have been instructed to climb.  I am thankful for this day, and look forward to working at Plum Restaurant this weekend.